ESky Happy Baby K-27 (Kamov KA-27)
On Board equipment, two Bluebird 306 servo, one Bluebird Rx, two GWS ICS-100, V-tail mixing board (will explain later) and a PG-03 gyro.
two 180 motors provide satisfactory lift.
R/C Helicopter with 4 channels.
Smart and sensitive. Easy to learn flying and easy to start flying. --Flying time: 10 minutes. --72MHz or 35MHz available
Spec:
Motor type: 2 x 180 size (FK-180SH Mabuchi Motor)
Gear ratio: 8.75 : 1
Main motor diameter: 340mm
RC System: 4 CH / 2 micro servo
4-in-1 mixer negative shift receiver
Power: Li-ion polymer 7.4V 1100 mAH LiPo battery
All-up-weight: 200g
-HC-50 Transmitter Crystal
-HC-50 Transmitter
I put some Hitec servo grease (white grease) on some of the moving parts, like the swash balls, and a drop of oil around the bearings and inside and outside shafts.
I would guess that "quality control" is absent from the factory. I would describe the hover and flying as somewhere between an XRB and Hummingbird. Below is a list of tips and trims.
1. Balance the rotors and flybar. Disconnect the bottom gear so the top rotor spins freely. Remove the flybar and balance the rotor. Then re-install the flybar and balance it. Be sure to place the flybar weights in front of the leading edge of the top rotor. It’s easy to install it incorrectly. (the top pivot socket just slips into the top of the center shaft, so it pops out when you have a mild oops. (better than breaking). Loosen the lower rotor clamp screw and shaft collar to drop the outer shaft so it doesn’t engage the pinion. Balance the lower rotor
2. Loosen all balls and sockets so they almost fall apart.
3. Check your gear mesh. Mine was not tight, but there was no slop. I removed the motors and elongated the holes so I could get a little slop in both gear sets.
4. Lube the motor bushing and all bearings
5. ream out the center of the swash plate just a little and smooth it up. There is no ball-in-swash, and it seemed to "grab" the outer shaft.
7. Lightly polish the outer shaft with 400 or 600 sandpaper
8. If you have a computer radio, adjust the servo arms to level when centered. (Mine were about 5-10 degrees down from the factory).
9. Open up the lower slot on the pieces that go from the swash to the lower rotors. Both have a plastic anti-rotation pin that goes through the slots. Mine were a bit tight and sticky. When re-installing, be sure that the long slot goes on the bottom.
10. Shorten the bottom of the lower rotor clamp piece about 1 / 32 inch and sand it smooth. It fits just above the swash, and mine seemed to bind a bit when the swash was tilted.
11. Mine flies best with the battery about 1 / 4 inch forward of the factory location, so you have to cut off the front stop tab.
ADJUSTING THE GYRO..This is really tough. I don’t think that it’s nearly as good as the XRB or other micros. It is VERY SENSITIVE. The front pot is for gain and the rear pot controls the proportional power between the rotors for yaw. I set the front pot to about 80%. If your Baby yaws to the left, turn the rear screw to the left. MOST IMPORTANT: You MUST disconnect the battery, and then make changes and then hook up the battery again. Tiny adjustments make a big difference.
It still takes a 45 to 90 degree yaw occasionally with no apparent reason, and it occasionally drifts left or right, even after fine-adjusting the transmitter trim. I’ve also noticed that "goosing" the throttle with cause a pyro (probably unequal friction on the shafts. After smoothing everything, this is less apparent.
My motors run pretty hot, and the battery also gets very warm. Flight time is only about 5 to 7 minutes. I don’t know about the quality of the battery. I’ve got an etec 1200 that weighs considerably less, and it seems to get less warm, and flight time is probably closer to 10 minutes. It’s shorter than the factory battery and I usually place it about 1 / 4 inch BEHIND the front of the battery box, which is about 1 / 2 inch behind the front of the factory battery.
I’ll try fitting an Aerohawk canopy on it, and make a carbon tail boom with a horizontal and vertical stabilizer. Perhaps these will dampen the yaw, and make it easier to orientate.
All in all, it’s a pretty good ship. I’ll also probably try complete seperates since I’ve got a Hitec Eclipse and I can use all of the mixers. (well, I will be able to once I read the instructions)...
P.S. I’m trying to post a photo of my baby with the Hummigbird canopy and carbon rod tail. It’s much easier to keep orientation than with the original canopy (green submarine).
How it works
CYCLIC PITCH CONTROL: Helicopter controls do not tilt the rotor. The control change angles of the rotor blade using a mechanism that connects the rotor head via the swash plate to the craft joystick.
Forward cyclic - More lift on the rotor on the rear half than the front half. Forward cyclic makes the helicopter pitch (tilt) forward. Rear cyclic makes the helicopter pitch (tilt) backward. Right cyclic rolls (tilts) the helicopter right. Left cyclic rolls (tilts) the helicopter left.
The cyclic changes keep the helicopter under control which is manipulating the craft's lift. As the helicopter pitches or rolls in a certain direction, the craft will loose altitude. When you level out and all the lift is now directed against the pull of gravity again. Unless you decrease rotor lift, your helicopter will start gaining altitude. Because of Gyroscopic Precession, the lift forces of the rotor actually occur 90 degrees later in the rotation.
Updated On: 18.10.15